• Rules and Regulations for VARAC Cars
     December 18, 2009
   
• VARAC Group 70+ Car Registration Form 2010
     October 15, 2009
   
• Vintage/Historic Car Registration Form 2010
     October 28, 2009
   
• Monoposto Racing - Rules and Regulations
   

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Nick Pratt has put together the following FAQs for the benefit of members.
 

As I work for a company that packages brake fluid I checked with our lab for some expert advise and have the following info:

a. Don't use silicone brake fluid. It has a tendancy to foam when put under pressure which is not good for braking. DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3&4 and for that you get to pay a premium.

b. DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids are cheap, compatible and can be mixed. The major difference between these two fluids is Minimum Boiling Point, Wet Boiling Point and Viscosity shown below.

• DOT 3 - 205C (401F), 140C (284F), 1500 mm2/s @ -40C.
• DOT 4 - 230C (446F), 155C (311F), 1800 mm2/s @ -40C.
• DOT 5 - 260C (500F), 180C (356F), 900 mm2/s @ -40C.

c. Not all brake fluid is equal although it carries the same designation. Some fluids just meet the minimum specs while others are formulated to a higher standard. David's experience tells that story rather dramatically.

d. We have a product that is unfortunately being discontinued (too few takers for a premium DOT 3) which has a boiling point of 530F and excellent corrosion protection. This was recommendended by our lab for me and will be in the MGB next season.

e. Changing the fluid frequently is a view point that is changing with the OEM's. They are now recommending a change every 3-4 years, except Ford who is not recommending a fluid change at all. Ford also has the highest rated brake fluid of the NA OEM's. In my opinion it is a cheap fix so why not change the fluid frequently, just to be on the safe side, even if you don't need to.
 

2000SA rated models. I found CSC Racing in Newmarket were very helpful and knowledgable regarding the correct fit.
 

Check with the appropriate eligibility rep for your class of car. Do this BEFORE you buy the car or spend gobs of money if you want to run Vintage.

For your eligibility rep, check the Eligibility Committee. Make sure to review the Rules and Regs found above for your class.
 

The annual technical inspection can be undertaken in advance of the race season at the Spring Fling event. Check with one of the your Class Representative for who in VARAC will do this for you. You can also get your car inspected on race weekends but BE WARNED this can be a lengthy process, particularly at the start of the season.
 

You check with the Membership Director, Gavin Ivory who manages the numbers and can assign you your choice of whatever is available. There is no charge. If you buy a car with a number already on it, you can use that number PROVIDED the original owner does not renew the number for the current race season. Gavin can tell you that.
 

Triangles for novices shall be the same size as for numbers, which is 10 inches high with a 2 inch stroke for a GT/sports car, and 8 inches high with a 1-1/2 inch stroke for a formula/SR car.
 

Many cars run 110 octane racing fuel which can be obtained at most tracks. This fuel is very expensive (around $3/litre). Many racers elect to go with a 50/50 mix of the 110 and Sunoco 94. You should check with someone familiar with your engine to determine exactly what would be best.
 

Entry Forms are posted on the CASC web site (http://www.casc.on.ca/RACE-EF.asp). There is often a discount offered for early bookings for some races/test days.
 

On track health insurance is available from Jon Inglis. You cannot insure your car on the track, however, it is strongly recommended you insure the car for comprehensive (fire and theft) and for liability when being towed behind your vehicle. Insurance companies usually insure a race car until it enters the race paddock).

DON'T FORGET out of country health insurance when you travel to race events in the United States. Injuries sustained in speed events are not covered by travel insurance!
 

Warm up is usually open OR closed wheel BUT all classes ie. Vettes and Sprites or Formula Atlantic and F.Jr. Drivers should be extremely careful when participating in warmups as speeds will vary drastically and many mishaps occur during these times. A practice is restricted to body type (open or closed wheel) and may be further restricted to engine displacement if the race event is vintage only.
 

• The Technique of Motor Racing by Piero Taruff
• The Racing Driver - The Theory and Practice of Fast Driving by Denis Jenkinson
• Sportscar & Competition Driving by Paul Frere
  
• Going Faster by Skip Barber
• Speed Secrets Ross Bentley
• An Introduction to Race Driving - A Handbook for Drivers by Ross Eddie

The Carrol Smith book....Prepare to Win is a good start.
 

Park beside some of your group and follow their lead.
 

Clutches can disintegrate in racing, throwing shrapnel through the bodywork and potentially through your legs. You must install a steel (1/8 inch recommended) or aluminum (3/16 inch recommended) piece in the engine bay or driver's compartment that will shield your legs in the event of an explosion. Another option is to buy an explosion proof blanket for the bell housing. In both instances, you will probably need to have the engine out of the car to do this.
 

Paddock areas are generally quite secure and some are patrolled by nighttime security. But use common sense - don't leave any valuables or items in or around the car that can be carried off.

ALWAYS PUT YOUR WALLET IN YOUR LOCKED VEHICLE!
 

There are several driving schools offered, ranging in price from $900 to over $4000 depending on whether you want the Volkswagon or Cadillac version. Horizon Racing School's program runs in early April and is highly recommended for vintage drivers -- it is reasonable and of high quality.

For details on all schools, check the CASC web site at http://www.casc.on.ca/DrivingSchools.asp
 

Yes, CASC regulations require that medicals are mandatory for race drivers. Every five years between the ages of 35 and 50, every two years 51 to 60 and every year over 60. Forms are available on the CASC site at http://www.casc.on.ca/LicenseApplications.asp
 

First you must join a Club like VARAC and your membership must be in good standing. Then you have to attend a Driving School (see Question 19).

Assuming you pass, you must then apply for a competition licence. The forms are available on the CASC site at http://www.casc.on.ca/LicenseApplications.asp. A total of six completed novice races are required before you can get your full competition licence.
 

This is your racing bible. All race cars must have a log book which can be obtained from CASC. Drivers must bring their log books to every race to have the particulars noted therein by the Race Steward.
 

Grade 8 good or bad is kind of like religion - some people think it's fine, other people think it's worse than nails. Most people writing on the internet on this subject are perpetuating hearsay - they haven't really got the knowledge or background to judge what they are judging. I'm in that boat, but I've done a lot of research on the subject. Here's what I found out, after talking to tech reps at companies like Unbrako, SPS, ARP, Brafasco, and suppliers like Coast Fabrication. The first problem is counterfeit bolts. Good bolts cost more to make than poor bolts, so people can make money by counterfeiting bolts. If you buy AN bolts from a reputable supplier, you can also get certificates of authenticity, if you like. That way you know what you're getting. I buy Grade 8 bolts from Brafasco locally, they manufacture they themselves, I have no issues with their quality. I use them for all sorts of things on my cars, like motor mounts, engine trim, headers, air cleaners, bolting the transmission to the engine, and so on. The second problem is the engineering. Lots of bolts on race cars are loaded in shear, double or single. AN specification include a spec for shear strength, Grade 8 bolts have no specification for shear strength. There are rules of thumb to relate tensile strength to shear strength for Grade 8 and other SAE bolts, but AN bolts are made to a spec since AN bolts are designed to be loaded in shear for certain applications. It seems that Grade 8 bolts are designed to be loaded in tension only.

The third problem is the strength. People think that Grade 8 bolts are "brittle". As far as I'm concerned, a bolt that I can turn into a pretzel without cracking sure ain't brittle, and I've bent Brafasco Grade 8 bolts into small circles, to test them. Sure isn't a scientific test, though. Grade 8 bolts are stronger than common AN bolts, which are equivalent in strength to grade 5. Only when you go to a 160,000 PSI NAS or MS bolt or greater do you get to even the equal of a Grade 8 bolt. "Allen" bolts are usually, if from a quality supplier, about 180,000 psi and so are a lot stronger than grade 8 or AN bolts. Another aerospace bolt is the MS 21250 series, at 180,000 PSI they are equivalent to some ARP rod bolts in strength, and I've used them as rod bolts in some applications. When I was looking for these rod bolts, and doing some of this research, I found a 3/8 inch fine thread 1.25 inch long bolt intended for the inside of a Rolls Royce jet engine that cost $300 odd each, and was 320,000 psi tensile. There are a lot of different types of bolts out there!

So the real issue boils down to repeatability. When you put a AN, MS or NAS bolt on your car, you pretty much know, with great certainty, that it will do what you expect it to do, and that it won't fail if you've used it properly. So I use them in situations where I care a great deal about that. But I don't use them in situations where I'm blind-threaded into aluminium - a grade 2 bolt is probably stronger than the threads in the hole. Even some of the suspension bolts in my car are so over-sized that a 7/16 inch nail would do - modern Indy cars use 1/4 inch bolts where I have 7/16 inch. The other thing about AN, NAS and MS bolts, and this is a negative for casual users and a bonus for expert users (which we should all be!) is that they come in very specific lengths in 1/8 inch increments, with only the correct amount of thread to put a nut and washer on. So you need to order the right length rather than grabbing a Grade 8 with a great long thread that fits a wide variety of lengths. The other thing is that they often have a large radius under the bolt head, so that you must use a special washer that's chamfered to clear this radius, or chamfer the part that you're putting it into. If you goof and use a normal washer that interferes with the radius, you've just taken a 180,000psi bolt and put a stress riser in that makes it a failure waiting to happen.

So the only advice that you're likely to get is to use AN and other aerospace bolts for everything - particularly from people who sell those bolts! But the real answer is that while Grade 8 bolts can do most if not all jobs on our vintage cars just fine, the added insurance of using a properly made and tested aerospace bolt is worth the small added cost and hassle, particularly where the bolt is in a place where failure could hurt you.
 

I've used a product called Mirachem for a few years and really like it. It's a water based alternative to nasty/flamable chemicals. They're in Hamilton @ 905-664-7777 ask for John. He and the company owner are vintage race fans as well.
 

We are offering Smiths instrument repairs,service,sales and restoration. We have 30 years expperience with Smiths including the chronometrics. Some NOS is still available too. We can offer an exchange program and can also service units from exotic to domestic. All this and good pricing!--Alex

You could reach me at 905-479-7106 eves and wknds. I am located in Toronto.-thanks, Alex Polsinello.
 

Speak to Gord Lowe, he is Chairman of the Driver Conduct Committee. In the case of a) He will have a little heart to heart with the driver. b) If you feel it was clearly the result of the other driver's poor driving or carelessness speak to Gord Lowe ASAP. He has several penalty options, including put them on the trailer and the infamous 13/13 VMC rule.

The rules are clear, it is the responsibilty (100%) of the passing driver to make a safe pass. If in doubt don't. See http://www.varac.ca/rulesregs.html Section 21.0 for further information.
 

The Ministry of Transportation requires an "application for transfer" (to be completed on the reverse side of the vehicle permit by both the seller and buyer) and a bill of sale.
The Used Vehicle Information Package (UVIP) requirement does not apply to trailers.
Although insurance is not required for registration purposes, the vehicle pulling the trailer must have proper insurance. A buyer must obtain a new trailer plate and permit for a one-time fee of $35 and pay the required 8 per cent retail sales tax on the selling price.
New trailers must meet federal safety requirements as specified under the Motor vehicle Safety Act.
For info on these requirements, visit the Transport Canada web site at: www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/tp/tp13136/en/index.htm
 

Call the Registrar of Imported Vehicles at 1-888-848-8240 or visit the web site at www.riv.ca
 

Walter Davies has put together the following route: Driving Route